From A Young Chef

Pasta

2012-01-31T23:45:00.000-08:00

Crêpes Dentelles

2012-01-20T01:50:00.000-08:00

The Perfect Sunny Side Up Eggs

2012-01-20T01:49:00.000-08:00

"Yes, Chef" (A Chef's Perspective)

2010-12-27T17:59:00.000-08:00

Although I am not an Executive Chef, nor a Chef De Cuisine of an acclaimed restaurant, I work with these individuals every day. I hope that from my experience with these men/women I can piece together their mindset regarding the topic of the "Yes Chef" attitude.

The term "Yes, Chef" doesn't exactly apply to the Executive Chef in the same way it does to a young culinarian. In fact, you rarely hear an Executive Chef yell that phrase (Except at any Thomas Keller restaurant), because he/she is at the apex of the kitchen totem. It would be a disservice to any chef to forget his/her upbringing in the hard knox of a kitchen.

A good Chef should be able to command his kitchen without any attitude from his staff. This keeps other staff members motivated to accomplish service without distraction.

A great Chef' should not only have command of his kitchen, but also recognize the weak links in his/her staff, and set aside time to explain how to correct mistakes before and after they happen.

More often than not, Chef's only focus on being the "Chief" and calling out their staff's mistakes without an explanation.In my experience this egotistical attitude will only be responded with high turnover and a lowered self-esteem for the staff. It's easy to notice when a mistake has been made, but it takes experience, caring, and attentiveness to tell them where, when, and how to fix the problem.

Presentation

2010-11-12T11:42:00.000-08:00

To a young culinarian, this term will usually be defined by the method in which a dish is assembled and viewed by the consumer. I shared this perspective during my "green years" in the kitchen as a young cook. Every day I watched the more experienced cooks serve the dishes that I prepped, it continued to sink in. I really thought presentation was just that. The definition began to grow as I gained experience with different kitchen personalities.

A chef that I worked with a few years back was hell bent on how his sauces needed to be perfect, but never payed attention to the way a server struggled carrying plates to the table. A chef told me once: "So what if your plate is perfect. If it can't be presented to the guest in the intended manner, you've wasted your time." Another chef I worked with was known for leaving his mess after preparing a special for evening service. Of course, I would end up cleaning it, because it would usually spill into my section for some reason (just my luck). In my opinion, the presentation of a work space in any kitchen/dining room is a small representation of how that restaurant works as a whole.

This brings me to to my current perspective of the term. Presentation is any form of the guests experience as he or she dines at an establishment. Hygiene, work apparel, attitude, cleanliness, seating arrangements, food, bottle service, table arrangements, and the list goes on and on. I'm not putting my self on a pedestal, but I feel that the young chef's of our day need to take a few steps back, and study the building blocks of a Michelin rated restaurant. Think outside the plate!

Raising The Bar

2010-10-18T17:23:00.000-07:00

I would love to say that this topic is a daily practice for me, but that would be a blatant lie. The term "raising the bar," in my definition is turning the unrealistic into reality. In other words, if you're constantly in the pursuit of raising the standard, normal tasks become effortless and second nature. By default, you then raise the standard. This view helps me stay in reality rather than romanticizing about the should of, could of, would of. To be frank, I've never been the the type to enjoy challenging myself day-in and day-out, but I have realized that no on will push you to succeed except yourself. I don't want to sound defeated with the subject at hand, but the fact of the matter is, even if you're the best of the best, you're always going to struggle with self-improvement.

A friend and I were chatting about food the other day, and I started to talk about the famous "Poule Roti "(Roasted Chicken) that we serve at Bouchon. As I described the procedure to my friend, I began to realize how many steps were involved in order to produce this renowned product. My mind went a thousand miles a minute, trying to wrap my head around how many mistakes it took to end up with something so great. It's as if Thomas Keller knew the chickens' full potential before each attempt. To most people, mistakes are a deterrent, or a form of defeat. To him, they were a necessary stepping stone that had to take place in order to end up with something worth all the effort. I know that most chefs could roughly fabricate, truss, and season a chicken, throw it in the oven and call it roasted chicken, but this isn't just any chicken. You could say that its "THE" chicken.
-If you want to learn the process, buy the Bouchon book HERE-.

After having my epiphany, I began to realize that raising the bar isn't a monumental step that needs to be taken everyday, but more of a "steady as she goes" mentality. Every small improvement will amount to a huge result eventually. I know that this is cliche, but Rome wasn't built in day, nor was TK's "Poulet Roti."

Bad Habits!

2010-10-04T17:43:00.000-07:00

Bad habits start the moment a young culinarian sets foot in the majority of kitchens. This truth began to sink in at my first kitchen position at a local country club. The veteran cooks and Sous Chefs that had been working there their whole lives knew nothing other than their own way of doing things. I would constantly hear the phrase: "Well that's just the way we do it here." This statement would subconsciously irritate the inner chef in me every time it was muttered. In retrospect, the biggest issue wasn't the bad habits that surrounded me, it was the lack of ambition and experience on my end to correct them.

For every year that I looked for another dollar on my hourly wage at mediocre restaurants, I should have been researching Michelin rated, and James Beard award winning kitchens. I remember in culinary school, one of my colleagues mentioned the name Thomas Keller to me. I shrugged my shoulders as if this name had no relevance to my profession. My colleague glanced at me as if I didn't deserve to be in the kitchen. Shortly after, I bought the French Laundry cookbook and began to study the habits that shaped Chef Keller's restaurants. I slowly began to realize that knowledge is very different than practicality. Although I mentally understood the philosophy of Thomas' culinary disciplines, that didn't mean I understood what it would take to physically apply them.

The first three years or so of my culinary profession were exciting and new to me, but in comparison, very stale and unrefined to the leading chefs of my day. Yes, I learned all the basics of stocks, sauces, fabrication, and knife cuts, but none of these were as refined as they should have been. For instance, the chefs I worked with never cared whether a sauce was strained enough as long as it tasted good. In comparison, at Gordon Ramsays and Bouchon, I had to strain stocks, sauces, and some puree's 3 or 4 times before It was stored, and 2 or 3 times before use. Another example, is at Bouchon. We use a damp towel to wipe down the residue that builds up on the sides of a stock as it reduces (This helps prevent cloudy and bitter tasting stocks.) These habits made for velvet like puree's, and crystal clear sauces that not only changed the way the dish was presented, but also the level of professionalism in the kitchen.

As I continue to wage against my bad habits, I realize that my new learned habits are not used solely to create and execute beautiful dishes. So far, these good habits, paired with a touch of humility, become infectious to those around you. Before you know it, you find yourself surrounded with professionals that not only practice these habits, but push you to mantain and refine them. On the macro scale, good habits can ulitmatley raise the standard that it takes to be a part of the culinary industry.

Utensil Awareness!

2010-10-01T10:22:00.000-07:00

Kitchens require a very specific set of tools to execute consistent dishes day in and day out. Its very similar to math. You need all the components of the equation before you can attempt to solve it. No matter how much of a mathematician you may be, if you have a missing link, the solution will always be wrong. In other words, if you are missing necessary kitchen utensils, you simply can't execute a dish. This principal applies to all kitchens whether you're working in a local pub, or a Michelin rated restaurant.

My first "eye opener" with this culinary law was when I was prepping one of the renowned "Prawn Ravioli's" at Gordon Ramsay's in Hollywood. Ramsay doesn't use a straight or fluted cutter for his ravioli's, so we had to hand trim them to perfection. We used herb scissors, because they were small enough to avoid tearing the dough, and agile enough to work around the ravioli in a perfect circle. Normal kitchen shears tend to be bulky and long, which would make this particular process unrefined and twice as difficult. The small adjustment of a tool can dramatically change the quantity and quality of food production, and in this case that became apparent.

This law about the necessity of proper utensils, only begins with the chefs imagination. This is, "per se," the chefs hypothesis of what the end result of a dish will taste and look like. Even though a chef has to start with the ingredients first, he/she will always hit a road block if the necessary tool is missing. This is why a chef needs to review the requirements of the dish before his/her attempt. A common mistake among chefs, is when the dish passes the capability of their kitchen. This can bastardize a product, or even cause the slandering of a classic dish. Utensils have a large creative impact when it comes to the development of a dish. Tools allow you to customize and transform ingredients to a chefs liking. A Yukon gold potato becomes pomme puree with butter, cream, and a few essential tools. Its up to the chef, whether or not he will accept grainy pomme puree. If you don't have the proper tools and experience, leave it to the ones that do!

Finally, a kitchen that cares about the variety and most importantly the quality of their tools, cares about their food. Chefs that are hell bent on high priced produce, and low budgeted kitchen equipment will see the demise of contemporary cuisine. I recommend staying away from these kitchens because of the bad habits they produce. The chefs at Bouchon, always teach me to think five steps ahead of myself. Anticipate!

"Selling Out or Cashing In"

2010-09-25T13:52:00.000-07:00

I have always wondered if it was possible to become a highly respected and extremely successful chef without watering down the fundamentals of refined cuisine. It would be an understatement to say "this is a tricky subject to decipher."I can't say that I will debunk this subject in a way that will satisfy everyone, but I'll try my best. I haven't been able to steer clear of this topic in any of the kitchens I have worked at. I myself will be the first to admit that I get caught up amidst the rumors of fellow chefs, and culinary "tabloids".

My pride came crashing down when I heard Thomas speak about this topic in a town hall meeting. Although I could probably write about every topic he discussed, this one I found to be the most interesting. In the middle of his speech, he spoke about the topic of "selling out."He discussed why he wrote all his books and why he opened all his restaurants etc.. At the end of every explanation he simply asked the staff: "If you were given these opportunities wouldn't you do it?" He continued to talk about a lunch with Tom Colicchio that he had earlier that week. During his lunch, Tom expressed his frustration at the notion of him selling out. Tom felt he had been categorized as such. The thing is, Tom spent 16 hours, six to seven days a week, three hundred plus days a year for numerous years sweating over the stove as an executive chef for a number of highly decorated kitchens. One of which he made an empire out of. Tom said to Thomas: "I'm not selling out damn it. I'm cashing in!"

This took me a second to process. I had never heard it put that way. I suddenly felt as though I had written off certain chef's as "sellouts" without even looking at the hardships they went through to be so successful. After mulling over the idea for a few days, I developed a simple solution for myself. I began to categorize. A handful of chef's fell into the elite category. A few fell in between, but most were cast into the casual/classic group. The remainder were the select T.V. personalities that we all know. All of these individuals worked hard for their success and have, to some degree, made an impact in the world of culinary arts. Some more than others, but that's no reason to make a cheap remark about an individual. Ultimately, this idea has taught me the ability to discern between levels of talent or skill within my profession. If you're a proclaiming chef without any other experience besides que cards and directors, you're not a sell out, you're just ignorant! If you have worked countless hours, days, and years in the kitchen putting out consistent, quality food, and an opportunity arises, CASH IN !!

The Quintessential Chef

2010-09-23T22:41:00.000-07:00

-Quintessential: Representing the most typical example of quality or class

I have been contemplating the attributes of an excellent chef ever since I started my culinary endeavour. From my experience, I think a good chef should truly care about his/her employees. Ultimately, you can only be as good as your team allows you to be. Your team will work more effectively if they trust and respect you as a person and not just a Chef. The customer always comes first, but focusing on the clientele alone can leave your staff in the dust. The kitchen is no place for a swollen ego. Unity is what ultimately makes or breaks a kitchen.

For me, I am always trying to implement what I learn from my chef into my own character. I don't just think about how much money I want to make one day, or how popular I want my restaurant to be; I think about how my character will define my success, and everything I put my hands on. This is ultimately why I do what I do. It is a pleasure for me to work for chefs that represent themselves honorably. Ultimately, we aren't saving lives, we are just making the guests day memorable.

This same mentality should also be reflected in the kitchen. The chef should find meaning in implementing strong character into his/her employees. He/she should leave a legacy. This, in my mind, constitutes the quintessential chef. The chef that cares!

"Mise en place"

2010-09-18T00:00:00.000-07:00

I never really knew what a clean kitchen looked like until I began working at Bouchon. Thomas Keller runs all his kitchens to a very high standard, which is one of the many reasons why I think his restaurants run smoothly and his business is so successful. When Thomas was opening Bouchon in Beverly Hills, and it was under construction, he asked a worker to sweep the insides of the walls before the dry wall was placed. He was looked at like he was crazy, but it is this exact level of cleanliness that sets him above the rest. It has become more and more clear to me as I work for him, that his business is run by the standard of excellence. As I observe this on a daily basis, I try to incorporate these standards at my second job. As a matter of fact, the first couple weeks I worked at Bouchon I mimicked the level of cleanliness and organization that I learned at Bouchon at my second job. I came in the next day to find all my hard work completely destroyed, and un-appreciated. The juxtaposition between my two jobs is what I find the most interesting. Bouchon was my big opportunity, learning experience, and resume booster. The hotel was my predictable paycheck. In this season of my life, I am required to work at both places to survive. I will say, however, that the contrast between both jobs helps me discern how I hope to run my future restaurant.

Back to cleanliness.. Cleanliness is of the utmost importance in the kitchen. The french term "mise en place" literally translates: "everything in its place". This phrase is commonly used in the kitchen when referring to how a station should be set for service. The level of cleanliness and organization that is required during service should echo throughout the entire establishment. In my opinion, every chef in the kitchen should take personal pride in achieving these organizational standards when executing his/her own personal responsibilities. This level of teamwork makes for a more clean, organized, and smooth running kitchen.The standards that chef's work off of is imperative to the overall success of the restaurant. Having an organized and structured kitchen is necessary in order to operate in a professional environment.

At Bouchon, they challenge me to put thought into every action I take. For instance, when I am setting up for service do I think two steps ahead of myself in every action, or am I just thinking in the moment? Is this hollandaise better in a foam gun, squeeze bottle, or in a container? How will that look on the plate? Am I constantly checking to my left and right to make sure my station is setting the standard to those around me?

Now that I have been exposed to these standards, gone are the days that I miss a spot on the counter or a tissue on the floor. Although I have much to learn, I can confidently say I have embraced the standards that I have been taught.

"Yes, Chef!"

2010-09-13T23:57:00.000-07:00

I have learned while in the kitchen that complete trust in your superior chef is crucial. The term "Yes, Chef!" is loosely used, but the reality is, listening is complete submission to the orders of the chef regardless of the consequences. The chef is only human, but trusting your chef is of key importance to unity in the kitchen, and ultimately success in the restaurant.

In this day and age, I find that young aspiring chefs tend to be rather prideful. Perhaps this is a lack of maturity, or respect for the fundamentals of being a chef, but many of them act as though they know everything. When I am working on the line, I have to curb any pride, and completely surrender to the chef in charge. This isn't as hard as one might think, because my creativity isn't squelched. As a matter of fact, my input is excepted and often asked for. It actually seems that my input has been more appreciated at Bouchon than at any other restaurant I have worked for in the past. Not only do they treat their customers with the highest respect, they treat the employees the same. There doesn't seem to be as much of a "power trip" complex among the chefs. Perhaps this is because these chefs come to work everyday for the love of food, and not in pursuit of money alone.

I think it is important in any career to push yourself out of your comfort zone and try to work for someone that has proven to be one of the "greats." This person should also be somone you personally admire for their unique abilities. Working with someone you respect will allow you to look past the small annoyances and glean from the great things they have achieved. You notice the big picture, and move away from the negative. You work harder, and enjoy doing so. For me, listening to the chef, is just a part of my growth and my journey.

From the bottom.....

2010-09-13T23:05:00.000-07:00

I had heard from my colleagues about a book called "Letters To A Young Chef." The book is written by a renown chef by the name of Daniel Boulud. The book, in a nutshell, gives practical and necessary details and instructions to pursuing a career in the culinary industry. Basically, to break it down, it is the french fairy-tale of a culinarians journey to success in the industry.

One piece of advice that became important for me, was moving away from mediocrity and diligently pursuing excellence. This wasn't only about my work ethic, but rather, who I was working with. I decided to begin a journey to work with the most renown chefs in the world, and learn as much as I could about french cuisine.

My journey is not one of a chef that has already achieved greatness, but rather, a chef who is in the pursuit of achieving greatness. When I was attending the first orientation at Bouchon Beverly Hills, a part of Thomas' (Thomas Keller) speech had to do with the idea of perfection. He said: "There is no such thing as perfection in a chef's eyes when it comes to an execution or creation of a dish. Once you think its perfect, you realize there are a hundred different ways to reconstruct it or make it better. Its the pursuit of perfection that helps you refine the fundamentals."

I thought it would be interesting to share my journey with you, and bring you along for the ride. This perspective is not often looked at, but I write to you with great optimism that these letters will be an inspiration to never settle, and always pursue excellence.